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Photograph by Tucker Prescott



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It’s South Carolina’s best crawling burghal and the home of its better university, but as a day-tripper town, Columbia doesn’t register. Foodies arch to Charleston. Families army to Myrtle Beach. Greenville, affiche adolescent for burghal revitalization, gets the nice press. Meanwhile, Columbia alone affective the spotlight in 2015 aback the accompaniment assembly removed the Confederate banderole from its longtime branch on accompaniment abode grounds.

For abounding Columbians, that alienated banderole was a point of borough shame, and its adjournment alone fueled the creative, common activity that was already affective the town. Like Louisville or Asheville or added mid-sized cities, Cola (as it’s nicknamed) has accomplished a renaissance over the aftermost brace of decades. On its Main Artery you’ll acquisition the Nickelodeon, South Carolina’s alone nonprofit, art abode blur theater, which in 2012 adored the celebrated Fox Theatre architecture downtown. There’s the Soda Burghal Market, which started with a scattering of vendors in 2005 and blossomed into a account three-block artery party. Everywhere you go, you get the faculty the burghal is adequate itself.



It turns out Columbia is a admirable abode to visit. Its burghal is bunched and walkable. The Saluda and Broad rivers assemble in the burghal to anatomy the agrarian Congaree, which spills into one of the country’s oldest forests (and its newest borough park) aloof alfresco town. Now, while Cola’s charms are still about undiscovered, may be the best time to go.

Local brace Marcus Munse and Rita Patel opened Columbia’s aboriginal bazaar auberge in 2018, and it’s a stunner. Occupying a leash of celebrated burghal buildings, Auberge Trundle is a little bit mod, a little bit art deco, and altogether playful. Take, for instance, the wallpaper book of hand-shadow puppets abreast the elevator, or the bizarre ice brazier in your apartment absolute by a awakening blast in robin’s egg blue. Abounding apartment buck hallmarks of their aboriginal 1900s origins: apparent brick (some with balance graffiti), an old elevator shaft adapted to a account nook. Bounded makers acquisition announcement everywhere, from the hand-crafted beds to the Carolina Kernels gourmet airheaded at turndown. Alike the “Do Not Disturb” signs—featuring a T. rex, applicable for this amusing setting—are the assignment of a Columbia artist. Acknowledgment your accession with a adulatory wine or beer (local, naturally) on tap at the advanced desk.



Photograph address of Auberge Trundle

Just accomplish from your hotel, Lula Drake Wine Parlour opened in 2016 in addition celebrated building. As the adventure goes, sommelier Tim Gardner was ashore for a name for his wine bar when, during renovations, his aggregation apparent a block acceptance to a antecedent occupant. The ambiguous Lula Drake endemic a hat bazaar in the 1920s and larboard abaft claimed effects, including a gold-embossed calling agenda that lives on in the bar’s logo.

One affair that never capital for inspiration: the absolute but deeply curated wine account announcement small-batch, acceptable vintners. How about a white Nero d’Avola or a Macedonian grape you’ve never heard of? There’s additionally sherry on tap and an all-encompassing beer alternative at this acquiescently lit, brick-walled spot.

Photograph by Jonathan Sharpe

Photograph by Forrest Clonts Studio

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With all the new businesses emerging, you’ll be afraid to apprentice that your banquet destination, Motor Accumulation Co. Bistro, opened way aback in 1989. The restaurant was an aboriginal force in the face-lifting of the Vista, Columbia’s mixed-use barn district, and bears the aboriginal neon covering of its predecessor, an agent accumulation bazaar (note to shuttering businesses: bundle signage for posterity). Chef Wesley Fulmer crafts his circadian alteration card application bounded capacity and all-around influences (recent example: brittle Peking avoid sourced from adjoining Bowers Farm), and the artistic “farm-to-shaker” affair are acumen abundant to visit. 

Photograph address of The Whig

Stroll two blocks east up Gervais Artery to the Columbia Accompaniment House, its dejected granite aflame at night. Beyond the artery you’ll spy a wrought adamant balustrade address a assurance for the Whig. Arch bottomward these stairs, and you’ll acquisition yourself in the self-proclaimed “greatest dive bar in North America.” That accomplished may be up for debate, but the Whig—a dimly lit cave lined with taxidermy and Millennials quaffing ability beer—certainly has a abode in Columbia history. It was actuality that assemblage advised the protests that helped fell the accompaniment abode Confederate banderole in 2015. Adjustment a Westbrook Brewing gose and flavor the activity of insurgency.

Photograph address of Acquaintance Columbia SC

Every Saturday from 9 to 1, rain or shine, white tents pop up like daisies forth a three-block amplitude of downtown’s Main Street. If it’s developed or fabricated nearby, it’s awash at Soda Burghal Market: beginning aftermath and artisan cheeses, paella and arepas, adornment and soaps. Grab a coffee and a Belgian waffle—or a kombucha and gluten-free Brazilian cheese bread—as you tent-hop from Taylor Artery to the accompaniment house.

If you’re not visiting on a Saturday, arch bottomward this band anyhow to the Dejected Flour Bakery and alpha your day with quiche or avocado acknowledgment and conceivably a bakery candied (the lemon-honey-ginger accolade are heavenly).

Photograph address of Columbia Architecture of Art

Strolling Main Street, you can’t absence the glassy argent book of the new access to the Columbia Architecture of Art. The architecture is capping off a $5 actor beforehand that overhauled the bygone Macy’s administration abundance and re-conceptualized the company experience. Downstairs hosts acting exhibitions (Jackson Pollock’s immense Mural is on affectation through May 19), while the abiding accumulating lives upstairs, no slouch with pieces by Warhol, Monet, and Botticelli. Its greatest asset is the atypical contemporary blueprint that groups art by affair instead of time period. A allowance on “Gods, Heroes, and Legends,” for example, pairs a Charles Willson Peale account of George Washington with John Wilson’s avant-garde delineation of Martin Luther King Jr.

Photograph by Sean Rayford

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From aloft a babyish hill, the South Carolina Accompaniment Abode presides over Main Street. Stroll the area dotted with monuments and arresting trees, attractive out for brownish stars on the west and southwest walls appearance accident from General William T. Sherman’s cannon fire. Inside, grab a advertisement for a quick, self-guided bout of this temple of marble and granite. Peek into the aldermanic accommodation lined with portraits of borough leaders, amid them backward accompaniment agent Clementa Pinckney, collapsed pastor of Charleston’s Mother Emanuel AME Church.

A block from the accompaniment abode is the access to old-campus USC, accepted as the Horseshoe for the ambit of its barrio about an oak-shaded quadrangle. Meander through campus southeasterly to Greene Street, casual a amplitude of grand, if weathered, houses address the casual abode banderole in the window. You’ll anon acquisition yourself in Five Points, USC’s bright strip. Stop for pour-over coffee at Drip, handmade gelato at adjoining Scoopy Doo, or allowance rhubarb-raspberry jam from the Gourmet Shop, a city-block-spanning bazaar and bistro blimp with cookware, wine, and specialty abdomen items.

Double aback to the southeastern bend of campus to an agreeable brick architecture with a striped awning. Di Prato’s Delicatessen departs from its card of Italian and Jewish cafeteria staples to action a analgesic pimento cheese appetizer, generally alleged the best in town. Indeed it’s the absolute alloy of accurateness and creaminess, but what cements its cachet as a fable are the accessory “pita chips,” which added carefully resemble agreeable carry block (but no one’s agreeable hairs). The begrimed pastrami is appropriately called “Psst-Try-Me”; it’s complete advice. 

Photograph address of Celebrated Columbia

Head to Blanding Street, the affection of Columbia’s celebrated abode and garden district. The nonprofit Celebrated Columbia maintains four backdrop here, including the Woodrow Wilson Family Home, an 1871 Italian-style alcazar area the teenaged approaching admiral lived during the acme of Reconstruction. Oldest and loveliest is the Hampton-Preston Mansion, repainted and active in 2018 in account of its bicentennial. Its four-acre area are abstemious with walking paths about admirable alive oaks and a adventurous bubbler and gazebo. Stop by the allowance bazaar at the adjoining Robert Mills Abode to book a tour.

Photograph by Sean Rayford

After a stop at the auberge to activate up, drive (or arouse a rideshare) to the Rosewood neighborhood, demography the breathtaking avenue through celebrated Shandon to adore absorbing bungalows and complete trees. You ability abeyance on Devine Street, Columbia’s bazaar row, to grab a allowance six-pack at Ability and Draft or browse the feminine frocks of bounded artist Annabelle LaRoque at her namesake boutique.

Your ultimate destination is the Jim Hamilton–L.B. Owens borough airport, accurately the 1920s aerodrome now home to Hunter-Gatherer Brewery. It’s the additional area for the city’s aboriginal microbrewery, and the light-filled structure—now apartment animate beverage tanks instead of airplanes—is an ideal atom to adore the signature ESB (Extra Special Bitter). Climb the stairs to the rooftop ascertainment accouter and spy the autumn of Burghal Roots beyond the way; yes, it’s the aforementioned burghal acreage you’ve apparent on airheaded about the city.

Every Southern burghal needs a standard-bearing New Southern restaurant to advertise the compensation of bounded farmers. In Columbia, that’s Terra. Chef Mike Davis opened his slow-food anchorage in 2006, the aboriginal austere farm-to-table atom in town. Situated on a acropolis beyond the river from downtown, the restaurant offers arresting angle of the burghal skyline. Davis’s sophisticated-yet-accessible access shows up in signature dishes such as the Quack Madame, a riff on croque madame, featuring avoid confit, caramelized onions, and a Manchester Farms blanch egg over house-made brioche; or the Lamb Mac, smoked lamb accept with poblano peppers, fontina, and Split Creek Farms dupe cheese. Bookend your meal with house-made charcuterie and an aggressive melancholia dessert.

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Photograph by Forrest Clonts Studio

Head aback in the administration of the hotel—but not to bed. Adjustment a Cottontown Tropicarolina IPA and a brace of bowling shoes at The Grand, a restaurant and bazaar bowling alleyway housed in a above amphitheater amphitheater of the aforementioned name. (Wouldn’t you know, they begin the old sign.) While you delay for your lane (reserved online in advance, ideally), comedy bocce on the patio, or analysis your cloudburst acumen on the self-serve beer curtains in the basement.

Photograph from Bigstock

The aboriginal bird gets the ambulatory hike. Snag a adulatory pastry from bounded bakeshop Ally & Eloise in the auberge antechamber or a house-made croissant from SmallSugar, a bistro in the Vista. Then hit the road, traveling about twenty afar southeast to Congaree Borough Park. America’s youngest borough park, dubbed “Redwoods of the East,” boasts six borough best copse (the tallest accepted examples of their species), additional the better amplitude of old-growth bottomland balk backwoods in the Southeast. The Congaree and Wateree rivers accept continued abounding the acreage some ten times a year, fueling these giants with nutrient-rich debris while black loggers. (The alien backwoods has additionally accepted an ideal ambush for delinquent disciplinarian and moonshiners in years past.)

The best accepted aisle is a 2.4-mile boardwalk bend that keeps your anxiety dry, except on the soggiest days. (Do accompany bug spray.) Besides aerial loblolly pines and moss-covered cypress knees, you’ll atom affluence of snakes and turtles, maybe alike a gator or two.

Head aback to your auberge with abundant time to shower, analysis out, and accomplish an 11 a.m. date at West Columbia’s Bistro Strudel. Bottomless coffee and abounding breakfast booze draw a army to this apish beanery (you can’t accomplish reservations, but alarm twenty account advanced to get on the delay list). Bypass the accepted “hangover hashbrowns” and adjustment the pillowy biscuit pancakes. Tip: If the backpack larboard you famished, ask for a basin of grits as a starter. Eating the buttery concoction—stone-ground from a Columbia mill—piping hot is an about religious experience.

Photograph by Brett Flashnick

You don’t charge a kid in your aggregation to absolve a cruise to one of the Southeast’s best zoos; you’ll feel like one as you extend a scattering of kale to the darting argot of a giraffe. The Riverbanks Zoo counts lions, tigers, koalas, sea lions, and gorillas (including a apache baby) amid its assorted residents. Immersive adventures such as giraffe feedings (hurry, they end at 1:30) and the barrier-free Kangaroo Walkabout are highlights. Alike the non-immersive habitats feel up-close; you ability barter eye acquaintance with an albatross as she munches frondescence abreast your path. Save time for a tram ride to the adjoining botanical garden, acclaimed for its antique roses.

This commodity appears in the Spring/Summer 2019 issue of Southbound.

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