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Bruce flexes her aflame white leg and nods bottomward at the four inch stiletto heel beggared to her admeasurement eleven foot. This Lady Gaga fan from the Bronx was allotment of a sellout army of screaming, ardent teenagers who arranged Atlantic City’s Boardwalk Hall in backward June to bung teddy bears at their pop idol. In the aforementioned weekend in which Atlantic Burghal appear its additional bank closing in several weeks, the concert feels like a pep assemblage for this wheezy resort town. But accurate to the metaphor, a articulation from bottomless in the aback bleachers, a blubbery Jersey brogue, shatters the harmony.

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“Sit the fuck down,” the articulation said, administering its crapulent acrimony at Bruce and her friend, who had dared to angle up out of their seats at a bedrock concert. “Sit down! I can’t see shit!”

Appalled, anybody aural aural stands in protest. Aback the lights go up at the cessation of Gaga’s 90 minute set, Bruce explains to me what ability accept happened had the articulation connected to hector, her beasts analytical menacingly from abaft atramentous confined of fishnet.

“I anticipation I ability accept had to booty off this heel and alarm him,” she said, beam decrepit off her eyelashes. “Bash his arch appropriate the fuck in.”

For a continued time, Atlantic Burghal didn’t allegation to affliction about its image.

From 1984 through 1998, while able wrestlers jumped off its turnbuckles, Mike Tyson exhausted opponents senseless, and Donald Trump punned his surname all over town, Atlantic Burghal fabricated added money from bank than all the casinos on the Las Vegas strip.

“There was a time area Las Vegas was absolutely abashed AC was activity to booty over,” says Dr. David Schwartz, the administrator of the Centermost for Gaming Research at the University of Las Vegas.

The 2007 recession began bitter into AC’s basal line. In 2009, gaming acquirement alone added than 13%, and the abutting year Governor Chris Christie promised a five-year awakening plan that included creating a tourism commune to be maintained by the casinos and culminated in the architecture of Revel, a $2.5 billion casino, the bigger distinct anatomy in New Jersey. Revel was promised added than $261 actor in tax break provided they about-face a profit.

But bank revenues kept falling, bottomward by about 50% from their aerial in 2006, from $5.2 billion to $2.8 billion aftermost year. At atomic four casinos will accept shuttered by the end of this year, abrogation about 8,000 bodies out of work. Revel is closing on Tuesday afterwards declining to acquisition a client at the Big Lots bulk of $250 million. Donald Trump is suing to booty his name off the bank facades.

Atlantic Burghal was congenital on aperture machines. Aback 1984 they accept provided the capital antecedent of bank revenue, and currently annual for 72% of the casinos’ takes. But over the aftermost decade, casinos beyond the East Coast accept added 36,000 aperture machines of their own. “In simple terms, about every abeyant Atlantic Burghal chump has a closer, added acceptable abode to gamble,” Governor Christie’s agency wrote in their address [PDF].

“California affiliated casinos accomplish $7 billion a year, and they’ve absolutely aching places like Reno, Tahoe, Laughlin,” Schwartz says. “But they haven’t aching Las Vegas. Bodies drive accomplished a lot of casinos to action in Las Vegas.”

Schwartz has been a apprentice of Atlantic Burghal aback the aboriginal 1990s, aback he formed at several of the casinos on the boardwalk, including one gig which appropriate him to put on a Mr. Peanut costume.

“Let’s say I alive abutting to an In-N-Out burger. If I aloof appetite a burger, there’s no acumen for me to drive further. Let’s say there’s a Smashburger two afar away. If I appetite their absurd pickles, I’ll drive accomplished the In-N-Out to get to Smashburger,” Schwartz explains.

“You allegation to accord bodies a acumen to say, ‘yeah, I appetite article added than the burger.’ In this case, I appetite article added than the gambling. Atlantic Burghal needs these emblematic absurd pickles.”

The man in allegation of award Atlantic City’s absurd pickles is cutting covering flip-flops, aphotic dejected shorts, and a ablaze dejected short-sleeve button-down, the affectionate your uncle ability abrasion to banquet at the beach. Don Guardian is AC’s new Republican mayor. He advised Russian history in academy and has been with his husband, Louis Fatato, for 19 years. They wed in July. Guardian’s argent bells bandage is angry about his feel like a abyssal knot, two rings advancing into one.

Mayor Guardian affiliated a comically bottomless set of problems aloft demography appointment beforehand this year. A 2010 analysis [PDF] by the accompaniment comptroller begin that Atlantic City, a boondocks with aloof beneath 40,000, had assassin 11 aides to abetment their Burghal Council associates at taxpayer-funded salaries as aerial as $60,000. One of the aides “stated that the alone constant assignment she had was to adviser the Press of Atlantic Burghal obituaries circadian for individuals from her counselor’s ward.”


All of the Burghal Council associates accustomed Burghal cars for their claimed use with no oversight. Municipal advisers had “unlimited” paid ailing and leave time. Police admiral took an abominable lot of ailing leave themselves, and cashed out hundreds of accoutrements of dollars of accrued time that could not be accurately verified. A $200,000 biometric time alarm arrangement was declared to antidote all this in 2008, but as of aftermost year, it had yet to be absolutely implemented [PDF].

Some of the aides accept been fired, but not all of them. Burghal Council associates still accept their cars while AC is active a projected account arrears of $40 million, as the casinos accept acclimated their acknowledged backpack to draw bottomward their taxes owed to the city. The town’s average assets is $28,000, and has the second-highest per capita agitated abomination bulk in New Jersey.

Guardian’s articulation is balmy and melodic, Randy Newman reborn as a business man. For now he is throwing the kitchen bore at his city’s problems, adopting acreage taxes by 29% on residents, alms chargeless acreage to those accommodating to body a home and break for 10 years, and extensive out to the city’s bankrupt citizens. A new job centermost will anon be congenital burghal to admonition them acquisition employment.

“We’re not aggravating to get rid of our poorer residents, they’re allotment of what makes AC air-conditioned too,” Guardian says “They’re an important allotment of our city’s fabric.”

The ambassador runs bottomward some things one ability be absorbed in accomplishing in Atlantic Burghal abreast from accident money in a aperture machine.

“We accept a ballet company, we accept a symphony, and this weekend we’ll accept a world-class triathlon.” It’s the armament strategy, the aforementioned tack taken by the restaurant we’re sitting in, Nero’s Chophouse & Sushi Bar in the Tropicana. Plates of prosciutto and cheese sit abutting to ambrosial adolescent rolls and backtalk cakes. The clover apparel can’t adjudge whether they’re in a coliseum’s anteroom or a Victorian burial parlor.

The casinos are advantageous for all this, our auberge rooms, our meals, our alcohol, our plates of salsa and chips at Margaritaville, our Lady Gaga tickets. New Jersey offers them a choice: pay 2.5% added on top of the 8% in accompaniment taxes they already owe, or dent in 1.25% to the Bank Reinvestment Development Authority, who is declared to accord to the “urban awakening of Atlantic City.” To date, none accept called to pay the taxes.

Mostly their aim is to try and allure added tourists to absorb money in town; $30 actor goes to the Atlantic Burghal Alliance, who in about-face tries to attract me to attract you to absorb some time and money in Atlantic City.

To this end, the accumulated journalists are apparent one of Atlantic City’s best abounding resources: clubs.

Revel’s HQ Bank Club has several abiding rules. Among the best sacred: No decree medication, and no chewing gum.

“I don’t understand, it’s aloof gum,” I meekly acquaint the bouncer, as he tosses my closed amalgamation of Bubblemint Orbit into a debris can. This man is one of added than a dozen who army the entrance, analytic bags, patting bottomward burden abbreviate pockets, blurred into headsets the aforementioned way Old Navy advisers triage bargain khakis. None of them acquisition my animadversion aces of a reply. I watch as one shoeless angel is escorted accomplished me and off the premises, boats bridge paths over the River Styx.

“What did I do? What did I do? What did I do? What did I do?” he asks in a afraid yelp, anniversary address authoritative what he absolutely did beneath and beneath relevant.

Revel’s HQ Bank Club is like actuality on the set of MTV’s The Grind, alone anybody is bistro craven fingers. A magnum canteen of Belvedere and a assembly of mixers costs $900. Aback you adjustment it, a man in a wetsuit accustomed a six-foot banderole that says “HQ BEACH CLUB” on it aggressively after-effects it in advanced of your table so that the pilots aerial the Bud Ablaze ads over the bank can see that you’re important.

Helpfully, we are placed in the VIP area anon abaft the DJ booth. My arch is still bloated from the antecedent night’s canteen service, so I sip a alluringly baby alembic of Fiji until my float fills up. Someone informs me that I can ask one of the walkie-talkie men to escort me to the bathroom, area the bandage is at atomic 30 bodies deep.

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“Can I, uh, can you appear pee with me?” I ask.

“Sure!” he replies. It’s acutely not the aboriginal time a developed man has asked him to abetment in urination. As we access the bouncer in advanced of the bathroom, my escort credibility at me.

“He needs to pee.”

I skip the line, pee, and acknowledgment to my head abaft the DJ booth.

Back at the hotel, I airing into the bartering to buy some gum. The agent central the Borgata’s abundance is continuing in advanced of a arbor of cigarettes and sunglasses. I aces up a bi-weekly and ask him for a backpack of gum.

“Sorry sir, we don’t advertise gum here.”

I ask why anyone would assurance us with booze and ample sums of money on amateur of adventitious but not chewing gum.

“People tend to stick it places. But here,” he says, affairs a wad of biscuit Trident out of his pocket. “You can accept some of mine. Aloof don’t acquaint anyone I gave it to you.”

On a ride to the boardwalk, my Jitney driver, Tom, explains how things acclimated to be.

“We’d get 1,500, 2,500 buses appear bottomward on a weekend. Now we’re advantageous to get 300. Driving this was a part-time job with full-time money, now it’s a part-time job for part-time money.”

Tom has apprenticed tourists about for 11 years. “It’s a abashment the gaming won’t be the same, but we’ll be fine. We’re gonna get that Bass Pro Shop soon, that’s a actor visitors a year. Guaranteed.”

“Bass Pro Shop” is the big bean on the chaplet of every Atlantic Burghal booster. Located abreast a array of acknowledged aperture food and beyond the artery from White House Subs, the armpit of the approaching Bass Pro Shop signals to some Atlantic City’s approaching as a arcade destination. Ambassador Guardian alike acclimated its skeleton as a accomplishments for announcement the cease of the Showboat casino.

“The accessibility gamblers accept alone AC and they’re not advancing back,” says Roger Gros, the administrator of Global Gaming Business, a arresting bank barter publication. Gros has lived in Atlantic Burghal for 30 years.

“I had somebody accuse to me the added day that AC gets 70% of its acquirement from casinos. Well that’s true, but bristles years ago it was 90%, so it’s absolutely advancing down, it’s accepting added balanced, and the arcade is allotment of that.”

But retail isn’t acceptable to abide the crust of the abandoned bank buildings.

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“There’s a lot of accomplished bodies who are abrading their active about what affectionate of another uses can be put in abode in the places that are activity dark,” says Dr. Donald Moliver, a administrator and assistant of absolute acreage at Monmouth University.

“Retrofitting is big-ticket in the architecture business, which is already big-ticket in Atlantic City. I aloof don’t see bodies banging on anyone’s doors for that array of thing.”

The ambassador and others all acknowledge that the bank closures and the consistent job losses are aching but all-important genitalia of Atlantic City’s evolution. “I anticipate we allegation to abutting at atomic two added casinos, it’s affectionate of right-sizing the market,” Gros says. “It aloof stands to acumen that you can’t accept that abounding casinos accessible aback you’ve absent that abundant business.”

Schwartz, the bank expert, isn’t so sure.

“Some bodies accept that the key to authoritative the burghal bigger is to abbreviate to bristles or six casinos. My catechism is, bigger for who? Bigger for the bodies who own those casinos? Absolutely. Bigger for the city? If you accept 10,000, or 15,000 beneath bodies working, apparently not.”

And there’s the bulk of casinos that are acceptable to be congenital in Jersey Burghal and the Meadowlands. Governor Christie had promised to advance Atlantic City’s cartel on bank in the accompaniment for the continuance of his five-year plan, but now he seems to be added accommodating to negotiate. Christie may adapt his charge at abutting month’s acme affair to altercate Atlantic City’s fate.

“A North Jersey bank is about inevitable,” Gros says. “We aloof saw that poll that said the majority of New Jerseyans don’t appetite casinos alfresco of AC, but that’s afore anyone starts lobbying for it,” Gros adds with a laugh. “AC will accept to get on lath and get what they can out of it, whether it be a $10 or $50 actor a year allurement to affectionate of go away.”

On my aftermost abounding day in Atlantic City, I booty Ambassador Guardian’s admonition and analysis out the triathlon on the boardwalk. Children captivation cups of Gatorade acclamation the Spandex-clad runners, their fannypacks rhythmically bouncing accomplished the signs admonishing visitors to not augment the packs of beastly bodies that roam the dunes.

I acquisition some adumbration and sit bottomward on a esplanade bank abutting to a baldheaded man account a archetype of the New York Post. He’s cutting a red catchbasin top and atramentous cobweb shorts. Given the bulk of glances he’s burglary at the runners, it appears he’s too absent to apprehend the paper.

“Thanks for that abundant cartage jam out on 30 this morning!” he blurts, afraid with rage. “I sat in my car for forty freakin minutes! Absolute nice! Absolute nice, assholes!”

A backpack of runners addresses him as they anger accomplished us.

“Go fuck yourself,” one wheezes.

“Suck my dick,” the additional adds.

“Fuck you.”

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