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Michael Nagrant takes a adventitious on Aba and finds a lot to like in an “intoxicating” environment. Bill Entertain You Enterprises’ new West Loop atom boasts a “glorious” accessible terrace that captures the “very aspect of Chicago summer.” CJ Jacobson’s aliment is appropriately delightful. His red beet tzatziki is bigger than the boilerplate babcia’s, “bursting with horseradish aroma and the appealing access of feel limes (it’s like bake-apple caviar).” Sesame shrimp is “encrusted and cool like Rip’N Chick’N from Popeyes” and served with a “herbaceous” hot sauce, while crème brulee pie is a “smart awakening of the classic.” On the cooler side, the “refreshing” Domaine Skouras Moschofilero is “basically like the wine agnate of Budweiser in Greece.” [Michael Nagrant]
Flight Club shows that “sometimes the acquaintance of a restaurant is about added than the food.” Aimee Levitt checks out the new darts club, which has the appearance of an “English Cracker Barrel” acknowledgment to absorbing décor choices like ceramics horses, blind ferns, and “portraits that attending like they were aerial from the Haunted Mansion at Disney World.” Cocktails accommodate “at atomic one doubtful ingredient,” such as artichoke liqueur, and are “all bland and counterbalanced and mostly delicious.”
Food is “not Flight Club’s greatest strength” but there are some acceptable bites. Although tandoori craven skewers are “oddly flavorless,” Kung Pao bill wraps are “prepared well.” Raw seafood is the “most solid section,” featuring blue oysters, candied lobster, and abrupt shrimp. And the oddly-named “Creamy Sexy Mushroom” flatbread is “actually appealing good, a nice alloy of umami and thyme.” In the end, Flight Club isn’t reinventing the caster but Levitt thinks association should aloof embrace the amiable applesauce of the experience. [Reader]
PST continues to accumulate babble reviews, this time from Maggie Hennessy. The aliment is a “cultural kaleidoscope of acidity packaged in that affably Californian clothing.” Roasted beets, blooming kale, and broiled blueberries in a “bracing” yogurt bathrobe is “one of the best blithely aromatic, textural salads [Hennessy’s] anytime eaten” while the “bubbly, tangy” pizzas accommodate a “umami-packed mashup” of mushrooms, caramelized cipollini onions, stracchino cheese, and XO sauce. Seafood is analogously excellent, starring seared sea bass bathing in a poblano borsch alongside salty-sweet clams and yuba. Save allowance for ambrosia and a huckleberry sundae with crisped meringue dusted with Urfa Biber, a Turkish chili pepper. It represents PST at its best, nudging guests out of their abundance area with “murmurs of complication and depth.” [Time Out]
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